Across the Sea and Nearly Home

It is hard to believe this is only day five since we flew into France on a 6am flight from Edinburgh. What a whirlwind this has been, and how full our memory banks are feeling already. Albeit, our actual bank account has not fared quite so well.

But, oh well… c’est la vie.

We have landed in the quiet seaside village of Talmont-Saint-Hilaire and are unwinding in a cosy apartment with our own kitchen and the sight and sound of waves crashing beyond our window.

Looking out over the Atlantic Ocean, we are now in countdown mode for a good friend’s 60th birthday, only a few days away. We are very excited to see more good friends and come together to share stories about the various adventures abroad that have brought us all to this final part of our travels.

It will be a huge celebration and grand finale for many of us. Our birthday girl herself has just returned from a very impressive 20-day, 400-kilometre pilgrimage from Tuscany to Rome, so her night of celebration will be riding on a particular high.

And so here I find myself with a spare afternoon beside another window in another country, realising we have reached our final country and the pièce de résistance of the whole adventure.

But one thing we have learnt over the past few years, since Les’s cancer diagnosis — thankfully now in remission, though we are forever aware of the realities of that verdict — along with the loss of parents, and the devastating news of the same cursed disease spreading to some of our very closest and dearest friends, is that we are more intent than ever to live, feel and experience whatever we can, whenever we can.

And here I go, meandering off course once again.

Please stay with me. I do have a point to all of this, which will hopefully make more sense to you, the reader, and to me as well, as the words land on the page and explode out of my head and heart.

So, looking back out of my French seaside window, as I take time to breathe in the sound of birds chirping and waves crashing — oh, and the washing machine working hard to return our dwindling underwear supply…..it feels like now or never, once again, to get my thoughts down about where we have been since the last sign-off from the Krakow window.

And for the record, I really didn’t want to leave Krakow.

Out of all the places we have been, I wanted more of that city than any other. We were both unwell on that leg of the trip, and our bed didn’t want us in it.  We could tell by the way either one of us would roll out if the other moved an inch. So we were tired, but that didn’t stop the feeling that I wanted so much more of the city than the five days we had.

It is one city — and one country — I feel sure I will return to. Not many places leave that calling card in a person’s heart when they leave. I have a few now, and many that I have loved but not yearned to return to. I already had Italy, Ireland and Scotland , hence why we were on our way there for a second trip — but Poland has now also left its echo in my heart, and I am already placating my grief at leaving with reassurances that I will be back.

So, off we headed from Krakow and on to Prague.

Everyone I know who has been to Prague said, “Oh Prague. Oh yes, you will love it!”

And we did . Beautiful Prague. With the Charles Bridge, the Old Town Square, museums, music, trees and history. It had it all. But so close on the heels of Krakow, Gdańsk and Warsaw, I couldn’t shake the emotional bias that had anchored me back in the country of my father’s birth. Prague was lovely, but to me, not as beautiful as Krakow.

Les tended to agree with me. But like any good husband travelling while already tired, lugging around five times more luggage than he actually packed or needed for himself, and managing an overly emotional wife, I suspect he knew that agreeing with me was in his best interest.

I will say that we had a very luxurious apartment in Prague, and that bed was definitely happy to have us in it. We also found a fabulous riverside taphouse , we discovered it like a secret treasure which magically appeared one day through an old tunnel glistening in sunshine and it served up cocktails, fantastic beer and decadent pizzas, with 80s rock and roll hits played by live musicians all afternoon, every day. That part was fun and made us smile a lot.

We also managed to attend a symphony orchestra concert with an opera singer in the Chapel of Mirrors in the Old Town, also a stone’s throw from our luxurious apartment, and that gave us a high as well. The history is as rich as anywhere else, and we were so glad to have visited, but we don’t think we will be back — or at least, our hearts are not longing to return.

But never say never.

So, with our excessive luggage growing by the kilo every other day, along with our waistlines, and our now customary hour or more spent strategically trying to redistribute weight and calculate restrictions for the next budget airline we were on, we waved goodbye to the great city of Prague and headed to Glasgow.

It was our second trip to Scotland, but last time we hadn’t seen Glasgow, so we thought it might be a good starting point for our Central and Highland Scotland adventure. And it was a good starting point, but not nearly enough to form an opinion. So while we liked it, it didn’t get under our skin like Edinburgh did last trip. Returning is a soft maybe.

We then headed off towards Inverness under days of continual glorious sunshine, which gradually gave way to wind, mist and the type of Scottish rain that seemed fitting, in some strange way, for the day we chose to visit Culloden.

Like Auschwitz, the emotions and words in that sad place settled in our hearts with a dull ache and a silence that did not feel quite right for this blog. Too deep and sombre and too much a part of what many people already know.

Like many multi-generation Australians of Anglo-Celtic blood, I had several ancestors from clans with names directly linked to my own family tree who fell at Culloden. But that is another blog, or perhaps a private family update, for another day.

Those who fell at Culloden – just a few were named

What did get under our skin — deep into both our hearts — was the Highlands.

This part of the trip was meaningful for both of us. Les had mapped the whole sector out himself, spending hours researching routes, distances and interesting places to stay. He did it for both of us, in part because we both have genetic threads leading us back here: mine through my maternal line, and his through his paternal line, both confirmed through Ancestry DNA. Pretty well 50% for Les in the mid to lower part of Scotland, to match his other Maltese 50%, and for me 30% Highlands and 20% Northern Ireland.

But I also know that, in large part, he planned this Highland journey just for me.

When we first moved to Tasmania four years ago to start our lives afresh, Les was still coming through the long battle of chemotherapy after his shock stage 4 cancer diagnosis. Like many cancer survivors, hardship survivors and battlers of all kinds, one tends to see life and time and priorities through a different lens afterwards.

We certainly did. And still do.

I think in many ways we can say thanks to cancer, fear and hardship for stoking that flame in us, and giving us a bigger, bolder and brighter view of the horizon ahead. We count our blessings that Les came through his, and our hearts break for those not so lucky, but while revelling in gratitude, Les has taken to our small farm under the southern skies like a duck to water. He has also helped ignite my long-stifled desire to write into a bigger reality than ever before.

I love him so much for all of that, and for the effort he put into this part of the trip.

And the trip did exactly what it was intended to do.

On our last trip, we had come by car ferry to Turnberry. We even had a cocktail at Trump’s golf course, which I admit now with some reluctance. On that journey, we stayed mostly on that side of Scotland. To be honest, we had an experience on the Isle of Lismore, meeting the head of the Livingstone clan and being plied with gin and tonics at 9am by the Baron of Bachuil, that probably deserves a blog of its own.

But for this blog, let it sit on the record that I was inspired to return and dig more deeply into my maternal Scottish ancestry very much as a result of that experience.

And now for context.

I started writing a novel two years ago, just for fun and to practise while participating in a Write Your Novel course. A requirement was to have at least, or be close to, 20,000 words of a novel before you could start.

My biggest novel ambition was, and is, the historical semi-fictional story of my Polish grandmother and great–grandmother and their stories of resilience and survival. It will be a huge project, and one I have felt too humbled, and perhaps not deserving enough, even to write about. They are biologically my heroines, but I didn’t grow up with them. I have struggled with my sense of not being worthy or skilled enough, and still struggle.

So my plan arrived out of the forced 20,000 words I had to write. I wanted to write a made-up historical fiction story about two other women, as a type of practice run. I could let my imagination run wild and not get weighed down by feelings of inadequacy representing a true story I do not feel wholly entitled to tell.

So, on a whim, Scotland and my mother’s own ancestors came to me.

I don’t know if they are her ancestors, of course, because their names, their lives and their hardships all just popped into my head as I found them on the page. And when they arrived, they arrived with such force that I was quite amazed by how deeply visual their landscape, voices, stories, families and names became as they came rushing into my head.  I felt their pain and their grief.  I felt cold when they were cold and I felt loved and light when they were happy.  This is how I want to feel when I eventually write within the new confounds of fiction versus reality for my actual grandmother and great grandmother.  But with these two strong willed Scottish women I had no such internal barrier.  They were and are as real to me as I could have ever hoped

I’m not overly superstitious, but… quite honestly, I have since discovered names and places in my actual family tree that run in direct parallel to the characters born in my head without any prior knowledge.

I have to wonder.

And there was an old abandoned church that showed itself to me as I wrote. It arrived on the very first page. I could see it as clearly as if I had been there a thousand times. This old church, with its ruins by the sea, became an anchor for my story, and eventually I thought I should Google it and check whether any such place existed. If it did, even if it was only slightly similar to mine, maybe I could let my curious mind — that occasionally likes to consider itself a tad clairvoyant, laugh if you must — believe there may be something in it. I have always felt a little witchy like this.

And it turns out there is.

Not just vaguely similar, enough to put some fluff and cement around my story, but a place that is 100% the same place, in the same part of Scotland. I know because last week Les and I went there.

It is an old chapel, with the same old and newer headstones scattered outside. It is, like my story, originally built in the 13th century, though my story takes place a few hundred years later.

So, while we had many big, emotional and deeply moving experiences in the stunning landscape of Scotland, the day we parked the car and made the long walk across bridges and over hills to the edge of the cliff that looked over the North Sea, we stood there, just the two of us.

Not another soul anywhere — well, not a living human one anyway.

The place was thick with energy, some dark and some light, and for me it was beguiling and deeply magnetic. This place wasn’t obvious online, so I hadn’t conjured it from pictures. It is rather an obscure location, but I had conjured it from somewhere, somehow, because without any doubt, this was the place that had anchored my story. Embedded in the dormant 20,000 words that have been sitting silent and neglected, like this church, for the last two years.

We stayed for over an hour, and Les, in his gentle, wise way, slipped away and let me immerse myself. Their story came flooding back into my head.

In fact, on the drive back from the church, and through all the days that followed, the story was so big and revealing that I could feel tension in my bones, in my belly. I was barely able to concentrate on the sightseeing that followed.

Mission accomplished.

Book one is worming around in my head, and my characters are screaming at me to get their tales down on paper.

But in the meantime, because we still have a few dollars left in our dwindled bank account to throw around on cocktails and oysters and baguettes — and chocolate croissants, ofcourse — we finished our Scotland trip on a high. We promised ourselves we will return, but only after I have finished writing my book.

Either way, Scotland is under our skin and deep in our hearts. The rain, the cold, the sunshine, the stodgy food and excellent whisky. All of it. Just like Poland, we know that Scottish soil will fall beneath our feet another time.

We had a hilarious Irish host at an equally hilarious pub stay in Thurso, who did his best to impersonate Mrs Brown.

On our third-last day, already booked to fly to France from Edinburgh, he told us that leaving without doing a lap of the upper west coast of Scotland would be like leaving without seeing the jewel in the crown of the whole country.

As an Irishman who comes from another stunning landscape, we took his advice on board. But with no time left, and in actual fact, quite a few jewels already in our hearts, we felt we had earned at least a glimpse of the Scotland crown. We will go back and see if his advice stacks up. His hotel sure didn’t, but that was part of the whole Scottish adventure.

And now we are in France.with more to see and two weeks to go.

We have been here before, but not to this district. As ever, France is sexy, mildly arrogant, subtly beautiful and delicious in every way.

The food, the landscapes and this new region have been a beautiful final layer of fresh experiences in a fabulous and multi-layered trip.

And with more than a week to go, a party to enjoy, and only twelve dresses and four pairs of shoes to choose from, we remain focused on what is still to come and grateful for all that has been offered — heart, soul and body.

But Tassie is waiting for us, and so is our golden retriever Stella, whom we have missed more than anything else.

Sorry kids, we love you all, but Stella……..we are nearly home.

Two weeks before Poland

My husband dragged out the suitcases today and I said, “But we’re not leaving for two weeks.”

In his usual charming and gentle way, he just shrugged and pointed to mine as well.

We are both excited. And with the itinerary locked in and the suitcases now sitting in the way of everything for the next fortnight, I knew it was time to kick-start this blog.

So here I am.

And for those of you who know me, you will know this blog is really just an extension of things I have loved for as long as I can remember.

While I mostly reserve my fictitious ponderings for grandchildren, writing courses, competitions, or the page itself, my imagination knows no bounds when given half a chance.

I do not remember a time in my life when I was not drawn to stories. True and untrue. Family stories, history, novels, scraps of memory, invented lives, other worlds. All of it.

Perhaps, as a lonely only child, stories found me early and gave me both company and escape. Maybe that is part of it. Maybe not.

But writing, reading and imagining have always felt like home to me.

Some people love to bake. Some feel most themselves with their hands in the garden or with paint on a brush.

For me, it is words.

This is my happy place.

I write mainly for the pleasure of it, though pleasure hardly seems a big enough word. It feels more like climbing onto a magic carpet and being carried far and wide into other worlds, where characters and places invite me in and show me their lives through their own eyes and hearts. When the carpet lands and they come rushing at me with their stories, it can feel intoxicating.

But it can also be maddening when, in the middle of something momentous, they suddenly fall silent and I have to dig deep to find them again, refuel the carpet, and somehow get us all back into the air.

Still, there it is. A pull towards people, places, memory and story, and a need to give them shape on the page and see what they might become.

Since moving to Tasmania, I have returned to writing more seriously, both fiction and non-fiction, including short pieces for competitions and other projects.

So this blog, and this next chapter of travel, feel like a natural coming together of things I have always loved. Travel has always stirred me, and so has the urge to give people and places, real and imagined, a life on the page.

If any part of what I write here lands somewhere meaningful for even one reader, I will count that as a gift.

But even if it mostly just satisfies something deep in me that has been wanting to stretch its legs for years, that will be reason enough to begin.

And if parts of it bring discomfort, uncertainty or sadness to those who know me, I hope they will understand that this is written not to wound, but to honour the truth as I have come to know it.

Writing asks for courage, and sometimes, so does reading.

For me, that courage came in the form of wading through the complex mixed emotions of one of the biggest stories ever to find me.

Not a tidy little tale either, but a big, true, improbable one that I do not think I could have invented, even at my most imaginative.

In time, I came to realise I had gained far more joy and depth in my life, and that a part of me had always sensed something missing, waiting to be found.

At the heart of it all were three younger brothers I have come to love as though we have always known one another. Bound by a father lost too soon. And although I will never meet him, through them I have come to know him.

It was as if the universe gave me a giant nudge and said, come on then, get off your arse. If you want a story, I’ll give you one.

And dear God, didn’t it ever.

So many people have said to me over the years, “You should write about this.”

If ever there was a story to be told, this is it.

And I generally nod, smile, and offer one of my well-practised responses.

“Yes, I agree. One day I will. Maybe.”

Or, “Oh yes, I have plans. I want to write a book. A big book.”

Sometimes I even get quite carried away.

I describe the main characters, the time frame, the sweep of history I want to dive into. I talk about the women I long to bring back to life, women I never met and who never met me.

But they do not feel entirely unknown to me. We are linked not only by lineage, from mother to daughter to granddaughter, but by something deeper. Across different continents and vastly different eras of history, all three of us have known what it is to protect and raise our children largely alone.

But mine has been in a safe world, where I have had a voice. Theirs in lives that mostly allowed no such freedom.

They live in fragments already, in photographs, diaries, family stories, and in that odd pull of recognition that cannot always be explained.

And there is also the one man for whom, for reasons that go deeper than biology, I feel a profound love and compassion.

A man I somehow mourn, even though I never knew him.

He is perhaps the main anchor to my story. On some level, I feel his guiding hand, and through him an unspoken ode to the two women who protected him and loved him with a fierce maternal devotion that I understand only too well now that I am a mother, and more than that, a grandmother.

Across time and blood and mystery, I feel their love, their fear, their endurance, and their determination to protect the child at the centre of their world.

I am, after all, their most direct female descendant.

That alone leaves me feeling both daunted and deeply compelled.

Compelled not only to tell their story, or try to find their voices, but to honour what they endured, their sacrifices, their hardship, their courage, and the kind of endurance future generations in their bloodline should never have to know.

I am compelled by the enormity of my gratitude. Not just for my own existence, but for the lighter, safer life I have been allowed to live because they survived what they did.

Even now, as the world seems once again to stir with unrest, menace and old shadows, we still walk in lighter shoes and breathe safer air than those who walked before us.

And I am compelled by the knowledge of the countless people who never had a voice, or the chance to tell their stories, because the horrors of war swallowed them before they could.

If I write at all, I feel I must try to write for them too, for the remembered and the forgotten.

But I feel daunted too, maybe even a little terrified, not to do them justice.

Do I have the right?

Will I hurt anyone?

How will I ever know the whole story without having to imagine parts of it?

Is it acceptable to use a writer’s imagination with real people and real lives when the diaries and memoirs fall silent?

Or is that exactly what writers have always had to do: research richly, honour what is true, and then trust themselves enough to step into the gaps?

And yet here I am, seven years after finding that bag of secrets, and the tapestry of treasures inside it, still only peeking in from time to time, imagining the story, then closing it up again and finding another excuse not to begin.

The excuses have been many.

First: I’m not good enough as a writer.

Years ago, another writer I admire deeply, my daughter, an educated journalist, suggested I should study the craft properly first.

Fair advice.

Writing has always been one of the great loves of my life, and also one of my regrets: that I did not pursue it sooner, or more seriously.

But I listened. I learned. Tick.

Second: I’m too busy.

I told myself that one day, when I found myself living in a sleepy little rural town and semi-retired into a slower life — when my days were filled with picking apples and making jam, well, maybe then.

Well, rather astonishingly, that happened too.

Here I am in southern Tasmania, in a cosy office looking out onto a garden full of colour and odd little treasures I call Nanny’s Fairy Garden.

On the other side of our old farmhouse, the land rolls down towards the river, with mountains beyond, and rainbows, and sometimes even the aurora arriving unexpectedly like a gift to my literary heart.

Another tick.

Third: I need good health first.

My body and my mind. And, very much, my husband’s too.

That, too, has come. Not easily, not without struggle, but with time, perspective and peace.

Another tick.

And then there was the final excuse. Perhaps the biggest one of all.

I need to go to Poland first.

I have told myself this for years. That I need to walk the ground my father’s family walked. That I need to feel the place in my bones before I can do justice to the people whose lives have reached me through memoirs, diaries, photographs, letters and records, an extraordinary inheritance.

It has often felt as though they were reaching out across time to say, “What more can we give you?”

Go to Poland, then.

It is half your blood.

Go to the country of your father and grandfather, your grandmother and great-grandmother. Walk where they walked. Grieve where they grieved. Love where they loved. Eat the food, hear the language, stand among the ghosts and the beauty and the history that helped make you.

Feel the bloodline.

Feel the story.

Feel what it means to belong to something larger than you ever knew.

And now, with that journey only two weeks away, I have finally run out of excuses.

I will go to Poland. I will meet the brother I have not yet met. I will make this journey with Les, who has walked every step of it beside me.

I will take notes, photographs, impressions. I will pay attention. I will open my heart.

And I will begin.

Perhaps that is what this is.

Not the book itself, not yet, but the opening of the gate.

A blog. A place to begin. A place to record what is found, remembered, imagined and felt. A place to let the story reveal itself, rather than forcing it too soon into shape.

And there is Scotland too.

The writing itself is not new, and neither is the longing to travel to the places I most want to write about. Over the next two months, this journey will take me not only to Poland, but to Scotland as well.

That part of the trip matters deeply to both Les and me, through his father’s lineage and my mother’s, and through our shared connection to ancestral land in the hills of Scotland.

It also feels tied to the unfinished novel that has been languishing in my files, half-born and somehow lost. Unlike the women in my Polish story, those two women were born entirely from imagination.

But even imagined women deserve land beneath their feet, and it feels right to immerse myself in those settings, to walk that ground myself, so that they might finally be awakened on the page.

The secrets are old now. They matter less than they once did.

But the stories matter.

Family matters. Truth matters.

And I have come to understand that I belong to a much bigger family, and a much bigger story, than I ever could have dreamed.

This is my story, but it was never only mine.

And so, before this story goes any further, there is something else I need to say.

With a full and grateful heart, I want to thank my three younger brothers.

Thank you for finding me in the first place, for opening the door, and for welcoming me and my family so naturally into the family fold. Thank you, too, for the kindness, curiosity and trust you have shown me from the very beginning.

Thank you for entrusting me with our father’s records, his diaries, his photographs, his writing, his history, his Polish culture, and all the pieces that have helped me come to know the beloved father who raised you, and who is mine by blood too.

I do not say that lightly.

The father who raised me was, and always will be, my true father and another great man in my life. I carry him with me always, and I feel sure he would understand this journey and approve of it, as I believe he already does.

I am so deeply grateful for the kinship, love and loyalty that has grown over these past seven years. It could have been so very different.

Instead, it has been marked by decency, generosity and open hearts, and that still moves me.

And having had the privilege of meeting our father’s lovely wife, and the other extraordinary woman in this story, your own mother, it is no surprise to me at all that you are such decent men, or that the women in your lives are cut from the same cloth.

To my own mother, too, thank you.

Yours is an exceptional story in its own right. Thank God for your loving and open heart.

None of this has been simple. None of it has been easy. And yet, for all its complexity, it has also been miraculous.

I have felt you by my side with love and acceptance, and I know that from mother to mother, this thread that binds us knows no bounds.

Never has and never will.

And to Les. My husband. Thank you will never quite cover it.

You have walked every step of this by my side. You have steadied me, encouraged me, and helped me find the words when they would not come.

More than anyone, you have helped bring this part of me to life.

We are in this together.

I have also been richly blessed when it comes to fathers.

The man who raised me will always be my father, and my beloved stepfather has been a constant and loving presence in my life for many years. He is, in truth, the grandfather my children have known most deeply.

Family, in my experience, has never been confined to biology alone.

And finally, when all is said and done, I find myself pondering these things.

Science and spirituality.

Blood and family, not always the same thing, but both capable of running deep. Blended families, people tied by DNA, and others bound by something less measurable but no less real.

I have lived my whole life in that estuary of connection, where different currents meet and shape one another, much like the tides of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel flowing just beyond my window. Not everything that defines us can be neatly explained, and perhaps it does not need to be.

Who are we to judge the shape of such things, but rather to stand in gratitude and awe before them? Before science, before mystery, before the unseen workings of love, blood, time, chance, physics and spirit — all the known and unknown forces that help make us who we are, and bind our stories together in ways we can only partly understand.

And perhaps that is why it feels so incredible that, in two weeks, in Warsaw, I will meet my newly discovered older brother for the first time in our lives — in a country that binds us in ways far deeper than blood alone.

It feels remarkable that this meeting will happen only blocks from where our father lived as a small child, and from where, on 1st September 1939, the invasion of Warsaw set in motion events that would change the world.

It feels right, too, that this is where we should meet, and begin to learn more about the man who fathered us both and to come together in the country that meant so much to him feels profoundly right.

A hug will definitely be in order.

Probably some tears.

Some moments do not need much more said.

But write I will.